Air-Fryer Breaded Chicken Tenders

There's a class of food that exists primarily so that adults can eat something children would eat without feeling like they've made a mistake. Chicken tenders sit at the top of that list. The version you got at airports, the version your friend's mom kept in the freezer for emergencies, the version that comes in dinosaur shapes — all of those are descended from a real, good idea that just got progressively diluted on its way to the freezer aisle.

This is the original idea. A buttermilk brine, which both seasons the chicken and tenderizes it (the lactic acid breaks down a bit of the protein structure, leaves you with something nearly impossible to overcook). A breading made with panko — Japanese-style breadcrumbs that stay crisp because their cell structure is more open than regular crumbs — boosted with parmesan and smoked paprika for color and depth. A spritz of oil before the air fryer, which is what makes them brown instead of just dry out. Twelve minutes at 400°F and you have something that shatters when you bite it and tastes like the chicken inside.

You can skip the brine if you're in a hurry — they'll still be good, just less juicy. You can't skip the panko (don't substitute regular breadcrumbs; the texture isn't the same), and you can't skip the spritz of oil (without it the breading looks raw and pale, which is the saddest possible chicken tender outcome). Serve with ketchup, honey mustard, or ranch — there is no wrong answer.